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shiftlockmotorsport
Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 47
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 Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:51 am Post subject: land and sea axle hub dyno's |
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has anyone got any info on these or experiences? pro's ans cons? good pricing so very keen on one for my shop!  |
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Turboivo
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 672
Location: Bulgaria
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gsportcars
Joined: 19 Oct 2009
Posts: 58
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| Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Also interested in this. They are similar in price to the dyno-com units but comparisons on operation, reliability etc would be good. |
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shiftlockmotorsport
Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 47
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| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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| any one? |
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Dad
Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Location: No fixed address
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| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Anyone with any land and sea experience. That hub dyno is a really good price... (as long as it works)... |
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Matt H
Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 54
Location: United Kingdom
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| Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 3:57 am Post subject: |
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| Would also be interested, anyone ??? |
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Vic Dyno Hire
Joined: 30 Sep 2009
Posts: 54
Location: Ballarat, Victoria
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 4:35 am Post subject: |
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I find it interesting that 6 months after I had a long discussion with Land &Sea about their software options for my hub dyno design, they come out with a hub dyno that is similar to my design.
I`d be interested to see how they cater for the many wheel stud pcd`s including wheels that use one central retaining nut. And how they manage with cars that have axel runnout.
If it ticks all the boxes, it does seem like reasonable value. |
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Richard
Joined: 23 Jun 2010
Posts: 56
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:35 am Post subject: |
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| Bumping this topic as I'm also interested in this product. Is there anybody who has experience with these? |
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coz
Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:35 am Post subject: |
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I have ordered a pair of these axle hub dynos from land and sea.
Now iam waiting for them to be finnished. I was told it should be ready for shipment in september. But i guess they are a bit delayed.
If you are interested i will let you guys know how they perform. |
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dkGoodrich dot com
Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 159
Location: Frankfort KY
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| Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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Please post your results, I would like to hear about these as well. I just bought a dyne and I'm already thinking about trading it in for a 4wd lol.
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http://www.dkGoodrich.com
KY's Fastest Honda's, Acura's & Subaru's
Dyno cell with a 2010 Mustang Load Dyno. |
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Warpspeed
Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 484
Location: Melbourne
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| Posted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Vic Dyno Hire wrote: | I`d be interested to see how they cater for the many wheel stud pcd`s including wheels that use one central retaining nut. And how they manage with cars that have axel runnout.
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I guess hub dynos are really only practical for "in house use" by race teams, or where only one type of vehicle is to be dynoed.
In that case, you would make up whatever drive adapters were necessary, and you are set to go.
The idea of testing many different types of vehicles in random order through a normal working day, simply requires too much setup time, even if you happened to have the correct left handed widgets to couple your hub dyno to your customers Skoda or Bugatti. |
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stevieturbo
Joined: 29 Aug 2006
Posts: 846
Location: Northern Ireland
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 8:10 am Post subject: |
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Dyna Pack doesnt take very long to set up....certainly little reason why a few cars cant be run in a single day. Although not as many as a drive on drive off setup.
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Richard
Joined: 23 Jun 2010
Posts: 56
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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Axle-hub dyno's are not meant for the $50 customers who just want to see how much power they make. It is much more a tool for tuning/mapping, analysing and fault-finding.
On an axle-hub dyno you eliminate all of the tire-roller variable factors which influence the measurement, like traction, tire deformation and wheel alignment. Also, rollers have inertia which act as a fly-wheel which brush away the tune problems you are looking for.
It's going to be an axle-hub dyno for me. Finding the right combination of adapters is a challenge though  |
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bsh
Joined: 24 Aug 2005
Posts: 82
Location: Norway
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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The std Dynapack 4- and 5 bolt adapters, works on most "normal" passenger cars.
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bsh
Dynapack 6042 4wd Dynamometer
http://www.halandtuning.no |
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newbietunner
Joined: 24 Sep 2008
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Richard wrote: | | It's going to be an axle-hub dyno for me. Finding the right combination of adapters is a challenge though |
Only if you're doing 6 or 8 lugs! The packaged 4 & 5 lugs on the dynapack fits most cars. (The older VW bug & some truck hub rings will require a spacer.)
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dkGoodrich dot com
Joined: 18 May 2010
Posts: 159
Location: Frankfort KY
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| Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:28 am Post subject: |
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It seems to me that most tuning shops would never need more than the uni 4 and 5 lug adapters.
I have a drive on style dyno and I've never dynod or tuned anything that would need anything else.
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KY's Fastest Honda's, Acura's & Subaru's
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Richard
Joined: 23 Jun 2010
Posts: 56
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:50 am Post subject: |
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| newbietunner wrote: | | Richard wrote: | | It's going to be an axle-hub dyno for me. Finding the right combination of adapters is a challenge though |
Only if you're doing 6 or 8 lugs! The packaged 4 & 5 lugs on the dynapack fits most cars. (The older VW bug & some truck hub rings will require a spacer.)
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Yes, I know and I'm not a big fan of the sliding bolts DynaPack uses, I like the fixed patterns Rototest and Land & Sea use better.
With the sliding bolts you always have a bit of vibration, sometimes even a lot of vibration. And the bolts of the DynaPack adapters need to be torqued quite accurate, because if not there's the risk they break. A friend of mine has seen this happen and was told this was not the first time... |
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Turboivo
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 672
Location: Bulgaria
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| Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 11:01 am Post subject: |
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| coz wrote: | I have ordered a pair of these axle hub dynos from land and sea.
Now iam waiting for them to be finnished. I was told it should be ready for shipment in september. But i guess they are a bit delayed.
If you are interested i will let you guys know how they perform. |
Has anyone already got that L&S hub dyno? Pics please...???!!!
Coz...? |
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newbietunner
Joined: 24 Sep 2008
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Richard wrote: | | With the sliding bolts you always have a bit of vibration, sometimes even a lot of vibration. And the bolts of the DynaPack adapters need to be torqued quite accurate, because if not there's the risk they break. A friend of mine has seen this happen and was told this was not the first time... |
I've never had issues with the slots and sliding spacers. If people spend the time and tighthen them evenly down, there shouldn't been a problem with vibration or broken stud. I only hand tighten them with a wrench. (I do get a boat rolling feeling less then 1500 rpm but I believed that's just the suspension and engine harmonics. After 1500 rpm, smooth sailing.)
Same with mounting non-hub centric wheels. I never have a problem since I tighten and torqued them off the ground but people seems to always have problems because they lowered it on the ground to tighten. |
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bradyzq
Joined: 21 Jun 2006
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Richard wrote: | Yes, I know and I'm not a big fan of the sliding bolts DynaPack uses, I like the fixed patterns Rototest and Land & Sea use better.
With the sliding bolts you always have a bit of vibration, sometimes even a lot of vibration. And the bolts of the DynaPack adapters need to be torqued quite accurate, because if not there's the risk they break. A friend of mine has seen this happen and was told this was not the first time... |
???? What exactly is supposed to break on the Dynapack if it is not torqued correctly? I think you got some bad or skewed information. The Dynapack hub adapters are made of a VERY hard mystery ferrous alloy. They ring like a tuning fork if you snick one. There are no bolts on a Dynapack hub adapter. All there is is the piece pictured in the posts above and a corresponding number of machined stainless steel spacers/washers. You use the lug nuts/bolts that held the wheel to the car to attach the adapter to the hub. And hand tight is good enough. No special technique, just snug then a non-scientific thwack with my hand on the end of the wrench. When I say good enough, I mean one has held 1100lb*ft of torque without loosening from hand tight.
If that sliding bolt/ breaking/ accurate torque thing is an issue for you, I suggest you continue to ask around because I don't really know what you could possibly mean by it, and I use my Dynapack daily. I'm pretty sure the weakest link in the setup is the car's lug nut, and you're not going to strip one of those if you're only tightening with a normal wrench.
You're right about the vibration, though, but it can be minimized if you take an extra 10 seconds to center the hub adapter better. I wonder though if the vibration is any greater than on a car with bent or unbalanced rims. Which, where I live, would probably be most cars, at least street cars. Just guessing on that one though...
Just searched for and couldn't find pictures of the Land and Sea hub adapters, but I found a pic of the Rototest adapter and it's also got sliding (or more accurately, centering) washers.
Are you sure the Land and Sea hub dyno has individual adapters or inserts for each bolt pattern? Seems impractical to me. I suppose it could be some sort of multi-pattern adapter like some universal wheel spacers...
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EFI U Certified
www.dynodoc.ca
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Montreal, Quebec, Canada |
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