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Dynomax 2010

 
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Bill USN-1



Joined: 09 Jan 2018
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 9:23 am    Post subject: Dynomax 2010 Reply with quote

Just picked up a Land and Sea DYNOmite 850 with the standard version of Dynomax 2010.
I've spent the last week reading and performing the getting started and setup procedures.
At this point I have done about 10 sweep pulls and have gone from 40hp to 150-160hp fairly consistently.
My concern is trying to make sure my numbers are accurate.
They seem a little high right now.
Does anyone have a standardized naturally aspirated, mid to full size car setup?
A Table, info, env file I can import or use to compare with my settings for the vehicle and dyno settings?
This is my first dyno so I just want to get the basics correct before moving forward.
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Bill USN-1



Joined: 09 Jan 2018
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe these attachments will help.






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Matt Cramer



Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Posts: 392

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, I can't help with the dyno... but I can't resist asking for pictures of the Hudson. Very Happy
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Bill USN-1



Joined: 09 Jan 2018
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt,
I was really hoping someone else had a Land and Sea dyno that would be willing to help.


Here's a couple pics.

When we dragged it out after 10yrs with no paint on it setting in a PNW pole barn.


Stripped and no sun visor.


Started with a 2bbl TBI.


Then went to the Twin H manifold and dual 1bbl throttle bodies.


Fitting air cleaners
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Matt Cramer



Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Posts: 392

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TBIs on a twin H power manifold? Very cool.
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Adam



Joined: 02 Dec 2011
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know Dynomax fairly well.
The main thing I see wrong in your setup is the inertia settings. You also need to add a little "dyno power loss" - this is for parasitic losses such as the dyno roll bearings.

Inertia A is for parts that rotate at crankshaft speed. Typically you would leave this at zero on a chassis dyno. The reason is that you would usually be picking up the "RPM-A" signal from an ignition system (noisy) so the Inertia A value will add lots noisy inertial torque and mess up your calculated engine torque. Typically Inertia A is only used on engine dynos where they have a nice clean standalone Engine speed pick up.

Inertia B is for parts that rotate at the dyno roll speed. Your value of 3.279 is correct for the #850 dyno.

Inertia C is for parts that rotate at the Absorber RPM. In your case the absorber rotates at same speed as dyno roll speed above so we could just add absorber inertia to inertia B and leave inertia C at zero - but I find it makes it clearer if you keep B & C separate. For your model dyno the absorber inertia value is 0.723 Your Inertia C value should be 0.723

For the parasitic losses, these are the quoted values for that model from L&S:

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Bill USN-1



Joined: 09 Jan 2018
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adam,
Thanks for taking the time to try and help.
I was starting the think this site was dead.
I was looking for classes offered up in my area but it doesn't look like many classes are offered.

I got some time to go play with the settings based on your input.
What I found is my options are limited.
I have the standard version of the Dynomax 2010 and basically my only option is to use the inertia calculator that is built in. The numbers provided are straight from the calculations based on the settings input.

I could select a different option to try and get A to 0 but for a 4L inline 6, that's what it applies.
B and C are from the 8.5" rollers/absorber shaft mounted without the brake.
There is no option to manually input Dyno loss unless I upgrade to the pro version.
Right now I'm still having an issue where my runs are like a sine wave. ~
It's like a constant surge as the absorber increases and decreases during the pull.
My shop is about 300ft behind my house and I think the 220v may be weak.
So I'm going to make a cord to run from my back up genset to see if it changes the surging.

I'm open to all suggestions.
Thanks
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Adam



Joined: 02 Dec 2011
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send me a .run and .raw file from one of these "surging" runs and I will take a look. I dont know of any restriction to the inertia input in the standard version but I have never used the std. I should be able to modify your .ifo file on my system and send it back with correct inertia values. adamwalmsley @ gmail . com
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